FAQ
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Fusion™: The Original Mineral Paint
Created by entrepreneur and DIY expert Jennylyn Pringle with more than 20 years experience, Fusion™ Mineral Paint’s unique formula features 100% acrylic resin and is the highest grade strength on the market. Fusion’s™ results are nothing less than spectacular, providing furniture painters a best-in-class paint that features; an environmentally conscious formulation, zero VOCs, superior durability, and easy one-step application with a built-in top coat!
The Fusion™ Difference
Fusion was created with the consumer in mind. Smaller container sizes to suit your project needs, lower costs and less waste for you. A fair price, for an uncompromised high quality product based on 20+ years of industry expertise. Always delivering the best.
Environmentally conscious by design
All Fusion™ products are non-toxic, lead free, virtually odourless and have no volatile organic compounds (VOC) and contain no ammonia or formaldehyde.
Little to no prep work required
Fusion™ can be applied to most previously painted or coated surfaces without priming or significant prep work.
Built-in top coat
Not only is Fusion™ easy to use and perfect for beginners and pros, it can be used on virtually any surface to maximise your creativity. No primer needed and the top coat built is built right into the formula!
Incredible coverage
Fusion™ paint offers incredible coverage of 75 sq ft per pint (500 mL). In most cases, one coat is all you need.
Highly durable formulation
Once Fusion™ has cured, it yields a highly durable and a washable finish. Fusion™ uses industrial grade acrylic resin in the formula, so it’s slightly flexible and can move with your furniture, flooring, kitchen cabinetry, and more. No chipping or cracking!
Super smooth, matte finish
Fusion™ is offered in a gorgeous matte finish. This means an almost zero reflectance value that allows you to achieve a beautiful smooth matte finish with no brushstrokes in sight.
50+ colours
Get inspired with our true colour fan decks featuring over 50 hues. We’ve curated our customer favourites from the past 30 years, and combined them with beautiful new custom blend recipes for shade variations that are sure to delight.
Prep is not a bad word! It is the foundation to you having a successful painting experience! It is simple and doesn’t take too much time. Everything you need to know is in this helpful link here and this video too!
Every piece of furniture needs a little prep - even if it’s just cleaning. Think of it as an assessment of your piece, you may not need to do much, but its' better to start your project off with the right foundation for it to last. Don't worry- prep is easy! Follow these simple steps to ensure you get the best possible results every time. You may only need a quick wipe down to remove dust, and you may not need to follow all of these steps, but if your piece requires it, be sure to follow in this order:
Most of the time all you will need to do is
CLEAN -> PAINT
However depending on your particular piece/ surface and previous coating, you may need the following to be thorough.
CLEAN -> REMOVE WAX ->LIGHT SCUFF SANDING ->PAINT CLEAN
Using Fusions TSP Alternative, this will remove any grease, or dust, making sure that your piece is ready to accept paint.
REMOVE WAX
If you're painting an old heirloom piece of furniture, it's possible it had a wax coating for protection applied a long time ago. You will want to remove any Wax on your piece using Odourless Solvent. If you suspect your piece has wax, you can usually tell by giving a light sanding to it and if the sand paper gums up and you're getting wax building up, you will want to stop and remove the wax using Odourless Solvent (Mineral spirits)
LIGHT SCUFF SANDING
Sanding is only necessary on high gloss finishes or when you are trying to remove stubborn coatings such as Teflon or fire retardants. PAINTPaint it beautiful! Pick any one of our gorgeous colours, be inspired and paint it!
NO PRIMING NECESSARY - Most of the timeYou do not need a primer with Fusion Mineral Paint. If you are trying to prevent bleed through or knots from coming through you will need a specific tannin blocking primer called ZINSSER BIN Shellac based primer.If your project is dark and you are wanting to go to a bright white colour, consider using a transition colour such as Sterling for your first coat. These lighter mid-tone colours will act as a colour transitioning primer and make the switch to pure whites easier. To block out bleed-through from specific wood species such as mahogany, we recommend one to two coats of a Shellac-based primer like Zinsser BIN! It is white, so keep this in mind if you plan to distress your piece as you may need to reconsider the distressing technique. For extra troublesome wood knots apply pure Shellac, followed by Zinsser BIN, then apply Fusion Mineral Paint™ . If pure Shellac is not available, ensure to use 2-3 coats of Zinsser BIN on the knots.
You can paint virtually any surface with Fusion Mineral Paint! Your old out dated furniture, painted or varnished, chalk painted or milk painted, just be sure to follow the prep steps.
You can even paint the more unconventional surfaces from plastic to metal and glass, to fabric!
Surfaces such as melamine and thermofoil ( most ikea cabinets ) require a product called Ultra Grip as an extra adhesive bond prior to using Fusion Mineral Paint.
Absolutely!
It is best practice to clean with TSP Alternative, and if it is a glossy oil based coating, then give it a light scuff sand. Fusion Mineral Paint will adhere very well!
* Do not scuff sand if you think it is Lead based paint.
Clean using Fusions TSP Alternative
Usually the only prep required before painting furniture is a good cleaning of the surface using our TSP Alternative.
This safe and easy-to-use no rinse formula will ensure your piece is squeaky clean so you can Paint it Beautiful for long lasting results. Highly efficient, it removes oil, grease, fingerprints, stains and other contaminants, which will improve the adhesion and the look of subsequent coatings.
Our TSP Alternative is a phosphate free, non-hazardous degreaser that is safe and easy to use. It is a no-rinse formula making it easier to use than other products on the market. This highly concentrated formula allows for excellent value from one bottle.
HOW TO USE IT
A little goes a long way. Just add 2 capfuls into a litre of water for the best cleaning solution. This is a no-rinse formula, so just wash down and let it dry! During the cleaning process rinse or change your rags as needed. If your rag looks dirty with your first cleaning, clean out your rags as needed, and continue to clean the entire piece again until your rag is no longer dirty. Continue cleaning and changing to new rags until there is no more dirt. You may need several cleanings to remove excessive dirt. You know you’re done cleaning when there is no more dirt coming off the piece, and it feels squeaky clean. Let your piece dry, then paint!
Before you do any painting, you will want to remove any Wax on your piece.
If you suspect your piece has a previous wax coating, you can usually tell by taking a light sand paper to the surface and if the sand paper gums up and you're getting wax balls building up, you will want to stop and remove the wax using Odourless Solvent (Mineral spirits).
You can also take your fingernail and drag it across to see if anything builds up under your nail, if so it is probably wax and needs to be removed using Mineral Spirits or our Odourless Solvent.
Use Fusion's Odourless Solvent.
Apply it onto a cloth, then gently rub your furniture to remove the wax. This will dissolve the wax to help it come loose from the surface and onto your cloth.
It removes waxes from surfaces for prepping furniture. It cleans used wax brushes. Can be used to remove sticky residue from price tag stickers and more. It's just a great PREP product to have on hand at all times.
Our Odourless Solvent is also known as Odourless Mineral Spirits
If you have heard of White Spirits, the Odourless solvent is certainly less toxic. Odourless Solvent/Odourless Mineral Spirits have been refined to remove the more aromatic and toxic compounds compared to White Spirits/Mineral Spirits. Because of this, our product is a more gentle solvent, since the removed compounds are generally quite strong as a solvent (though very unhealthy!).
The process this product goes under is a high refinement of 99.9% of the aromatics removed. It is possible that even other grades of “odourless mineral spirits” come in a variety of levels of purity. With this product it is guaranteed to be as pure as it gets (smallest possible levels of aromatic and toxic compounds).
It's never a bad idea after cleaning with TSP Alternative to give a light suff sanding, however it isn't necessary. When you scuff sand it allows more for the paint to grip onto.
It is necessary on high gloss finishes or when you are trying to remove stubborn coatings such as Teflon or fire retardants.
For a glossy piece of furniture, a light scuff sand with medium / fine grit to de-gloss surfaces would be wise.
It is important you only sand a clean surface.
You should also sand any rough spots to ensure a super smooth paint finish.
If you think this could be an old lead paint, do not sand, as lead particles are toxic.
No. Fusion is self priming.
If the colour you are using is fairly similar to the existing finish, or if there are no stains, knot holes, or other issues, go right ahead and paint!
If your project is dark and you are wanting to go to a bright white colour, consider using a transition colour such as Sterling for your first coat. These lighter mid-tone colours will act as a colour transitioning primer and make the switch to pure whites easier.
Light over dark is very typical these days, we all want that fresh clean look and what better way to brighten up a space than with a fresh coat of an off white or crisp white paint!
You can use a Transition coat if going from a very dark surface to a light colour. We recommend Sterling, a basic grey to help. One coat of that, and then go ahead with your lighter whites for less coats required over all.
Don't panic if your first transition coat is virtually transparent. The additional thin coats will work wonders. Refrain from overloading your brush and applying more paint for "better coverage". Fusion Mineral Paint works best when applied with thin coats to avoid brush marks. A little bit of Fusion Mineral Paint goes a long way!
The number of coats you need to apply depends on the colour you start with. Here is some more info of the best tips from Jennylyn creator of Fusion Mineral Paint: Watch Now
Bleed through is when the wood tannin's show through your paint. This happens with woods like Mahogany or Cherry typically. This will happen to any and all paints, the only way to stop it is by using a tannin blocking primer.
To block out bleed-through from specific wood species such as mahogany, we recommend one to two coats of a Shellac-based primer like Zinsser BIN! It is white, so keep this in mind if you plan to distress your piece as you may need to reconsider the distressing technique. For extra troublesome wood knots apply pure Shellac, followed by Zinsser BIN, then apply Fusion Mineral Paint™. If pure Shellac is not available, ensure to use 2-3 coats of Zinsser BIN on the knots.
Ultra Grip™ makes painting the impossible, possible! It is rarely ever needed as Fusion Mineral Paint can adhere easily to most surfaces such as glass, plastic, metal and more without a special primer or Ultra Grip.
It is typically used on Melamine, Laminate, Thermofoil and highly detailed high gloss areas that can not be scuff sanded.
You will know if you need ultra grip by doing a simple test. Try to apply a small amount of paint to your surface. If you get lacing, paint separating, this is the effect that you will see when paint is unable to adhere to a surface.
When required, apply a very thin coat of Ultra Grip™ after you have cleaned your surface and lightly sanded where possible. Ultra Grip™ is a milky white colour, but dries clear. Allow Ultra Grip™ to dry for 12 hours, then continue with Fusion Mineral Paint™.
*** Caution*** Ultra grip should be applied with a very thin application as it easily holds texture. We recommend a sponge for application or a microfelt roller., of a fine quality brush with a very thin application.
WHAT IS ULTRA GRIP?
It is considered an ultra adhesive primer and allows for Fusion Mineral Paint™ to adhere to surfaces that are typically not for painting, such as melamine or thermo-foil. Fusion™ adheres well to clean most plastics, metal, and glass without requiring this additional step.
Ultra grip only comes in 500ml which covers approx 75sqft. If you have an already existing finish, you probably don’t need Ultra Grip. Fusion works very well on previously finished surfaces with proper prep. A really good clean and a good scuff with sandpaper will be acceptable for good adhesion.
To prep like a pro
check here
How to use Ultra Grip
check here
95% of the paint jobs will never require a primer. The only time you need a primer is to stop bleed through if there are knots. To seal those, use a Shellac based Zinsser primer.
You may need to use our Ultra Grip is painting a super slick surface such as melamine or thermofoil, it acts like an ultra adhesive primer for very difficult surfaces.
BRUSHES
Natural bristle brushes such as the Staalmeester natural series and the Staalmeester original series provide a more textured finishes.
Fine quality synthetic bristles provide a smoother finish such as the pro-hybrid series and the One Series Staalmeester.
You should pick a brush based on your project.
Large Projects. Walls, ceilings, floors, large tables, or doors, the Staalmeester® wall brush, large flat brush, One series ‘spalter’ or microfiber paint rollers are the perfect choices.
Small/Medium projects Window frames, dressers, cabinets or railings, the Staalmeester oval brush, round brush and One series decoration ‘spalter’ brush are the perfect choice.
Detailed projects: Detailed furniture edges and shaped profiles such as railings, window frames, spindles, and ledges, the Staalmeester® pointed sash brush and bended brush are a must-have.
If you're struggling with brush strokes, the biggest culprit is too much paint on your brush, using the wrong type of brush, or the temperature/humidity isn't working in your favour.
If your brush has too much paint on it, it will leave brush strokes. Remove excess paint.
Less is more. Even a small amount of paint will offer excellent coverage. Apply 2 thin coats for best results. If you’re still struggling with brush strokes add our Extender to increase your working time.
You can also try rolling the paint instead.
If the climate is dry, your paint will start to create texture almost immedaitely upon application. Be sure to add the Extender to avoid this.
The ultimate key is less is more, and using a high quality synthetic brush. Learning how to avoid brush strokes while painting is a slight learning curve, these tips and this video should be quite helpful!
Don’t hold the paint brush around the handle like a hammer. Hold it at the metal piece, also known as the ferrule, and let it balance between your palm and fingers. That way you get a fluid movement from your wrists. Place it on your hand and feel the pressure – you aren’t so much controlling the brush as you are helping it glide. Most people often add too much pressure and too much paint, resulting in visible brush strokes. Less paint is easier to control!
Paint brushes usually come in either synthetic or natural bristles. Synthetic bristles are great for allowing paint to glide off the brush and apply smoothly. Synthetic bristles can be thick to ultra fine and depending on your application you would choose accordingly. These are ideal for our paint! Natural bristles are made of various types of animal hair which allows the brush to hold more paint product. These are ideal for Milk Paint, SFO stains, applying waxes and also for our newest product Gel Stain and Topcoat. Interestingly, nature bristles hold humidity, which is also ideal for when working with water-based paints such as Fusion™. They are also coarse, ideal when wanting to achieve texture in your application when using paint with a heavy body. In addition to these two types, Staalmeester® also has a special blend of both synthetic and natural bristles, which achieves the benefits of both types.
The type of project you are working on usually tells you which type of brush will give you the best application. Flat or angled brushes are great for beginners, as they can cut into edges as well as cover large, flat areas. Our flat and angled brushes have bristles that feather to a super thin edge, which means the bristles touch the surface less and you get less brush strokes. Flat brushes are also fantastic for stain and varnish applications. Round brushes are great multi-use brushes. They get into detailed areas and can smoothly cover flat areas, with proper technique. We have round and oval brushes that are great for an all-purpose brush. Some of the more specialty brushes include our wall brush, which is a giant flat brush that is great for painting walls by hand (especially if you want to add some texture!) or applying the Gel Stain and Topcoat to large flat surfaces such as tabletops. Our pointed sash brush is phenomenal for painting inside edges and corners.
Caring for your Brush Staalmeester® brushes are an investment, we want to help make sure they last a lifetime. When using a brush for the first time, there may be the odd loose bristle, which can be easily removed by swirling the bristles around on your hand.
Even though Fusion™ rinses out with water, we recommend using our Brush Cleaner to get out the last bits of paint and condition the bristles. The Brush Cleaner can be used for all types of brush hair. It’s also great for cleaning hands, floors, and work surfaces. It is 100% natural, non-toxic, linseed oil soap. To use, lather your hands or tools with the soap, and rinse with water.
We recommend that you do not dry brushes with the bristles facing up. Water will soak into the brush and can ruin the bristles. The best solution is to hang your brush on a hook using the hole in the handle.
We have an amazingly easy to use all natural brush soap cleaner made from linseed oil. It's beautiful on the bristles of your brush, not only does it clean, it also conditions the bristles.
Watch this video to see how it works.
PAINT
Many are often blown away by the coverage of Fusion Mineral Paint!
1 Pint can often cover several pieces of furniture!
Painting your kitchen cabinets? Plan on 3-4 pints in total!
As a general rule, when you are changing the look of your piece and going from a DARK to a LIGHT colour, you will need more coats of paint, therefore you may require a bit more paint than this graph. Especially if you are using colours like Casement or Picket Fence.
With over 50 stunning colours, you're bound to find one that suits you!
Don’t see the exact colour in the Fusion range you’re looking for? There are also 50+ easy to follow recipes showing brand new colours. It accurately depicts 114 colours to help you choose for your project and Paint it Beautiful™.
Our paint is a water-based non toxic paint, that doesn't have VOC dries in it. It takes 21 days for the paint to cure properly and be it's toughest. It can be touched up if there are any scuffing, during the 21 day cure time, be sure to treat your project gently.
Dry time is usually 30 minutes - 2 hours. After this point, you can add another coat.
Click here for more information about cure time vs dry time.
It's best if you can wait approximately 30 minutes - 2 hours before applying another coat of Fusion Mineral Paint. The paint needs a good amount of time to dry before applying another layer over top of it. If the temperature and humidity is very neutral, and the paint is drying well, you could re-coat in 30 minutes. If you start to re-coat and notice you're pulling up the base layer and activating it with your second coat, then wait a little longer.
Depending on how many coats of paint you applied, and what type of top coat you will be choosing, you maybe want to wait 8-12 hours before adding a top coat. To be safe, giving the paint more time for the water to evaporate, before adding a top coat such as Stain & Finishing Oil, or Gel Stain and Top Coat. If wanting to apply a Furniture Wax, just wait 1-2 hours once the paint is dry to the touch and you can apply it at that time. If you have waited a long time, like weeks to top coat, go ahead and add your additional coat at any time, there is no limit to when you can apply it.
It's perfectly normal for different colours to be a slightly different consistency
Each and every ingredient in our formulation is carefully selected, evaluated and tested to the strictest quality control measures to ensure a superior performing paint. Each batch goes through rigorous quality control ensuring that the paint will not separate or harden in the container for 7 years. We are able to achieve this by using only the best available ingredients on the market. Our formulation is 100% uniquely ours, formulated from the ground up with each colour having a slightly different consistency and weight depending on the wonderful mineral pigment used.
Click here for more information.
It's perfectly normal for different colours to require different coats for coverage.
For a purer pigmented color such as Fort York Red, Renfrew Blue, Liberty Blue etc these pigments offer vibrancy, but not the best coverage. These colours do not have the heavier covering pigments in them like iron oxides, this would greatly affect the colour making it duller and less vibrant and pure. It's a bit of a trade off - pure more vibrant colours, however more coats are required. Typically 3 coats is required for these types of colours.
You can add a base colour under to help out. if you happen to have it on hand- if not don't worry about it, just apply an extra coat of your colour! It will cover well after several coats.
Fort York Red - try 1 coat of Cranberry underneath.
Liberty Blue or Renfrew Blue - try 1 coat of Homestead Blue or Ash underneath.
Whites also require about 3 coats for solid coverage. You may wish to apply a coat of Sterling a mid tone grey when going from a dark surface to a lighter one to cut down the number of coats of white needed. Mid tone and dark colours are usually 1-2 coats tops. These colours have a lot of great covering iron oxdies which is why they need less coats.
Saltwash® is a base coat powder paint additive that creates a unique weathered look on any surface. Saltwash® was invented to recreate the authentic time worn painted look, which the owners of Saltwash®, commonly had seen on the seaside cottage porches and furniture growing up along the coast. Their mission was to create a formula to replicate the layered, sun and salt air kissed look, while also being quick and easy to use.
Saltwash® is formulated with actual Sea salt and all organic compounds. It is proven and effective to give you the layered, weathered, sun kissed, sea salt finish to any surface. It is the premier and original texturizing product on the market.
The beauty of Saltwash® is you do not have to clean or prep your surface before starting. The chemical make-up, including Sea Salt, give Saltwash® an incredible adhesion to any surface without priming, cleaning or sanding.
Saltwash® adheres to any surface from wood, laminate, glass, fabric, plastic and a variety of other surfaces, with no prep work required.
Yes. Saltwash® can be mixed into any type of paint including latex, oil, acrylic, indoor/outdoor paint, chalk paint, milk paint, mineral or clay types of paint.
When using a specialty paint, such as chalk or milk paint, you will not need to mix in as much Saltwash® as you would typically use in a latex paint.
Saltwash® has actual sea salt within its chemistry, which helps in speeding up the drying process. Indoors drying time is approximately 1.5-2hrs per 18”-24” square inch area. Outdoor sunny/dry conditions is approximately 20-30 min per 18”-24” square inch area. Note: If the Saltwash® is applied very thick in an area, the drying time may be longer in that spot.
Saltwash® is only a base coat. If the topcoat of paint you work with requires a sealer or wax coat , then you must use one. Whatever your topcoat of paint requires reflects whether or not you need a sealer or protective wax coat.
42oz large can = 65-75sq/ft; A.10oz small can=15-20 square ft
Saltwash® mixture will typically last in a properly sealed container for up to 2 weeks. If your mixture has become too thick and dried out, simply add more paint to your mixture and blend in to desired consistency.
Yes, to have the desired look that Saltwash® is designed for, you must apply a topcoat of clean paint, then sand to reveal your Saltwash® base coat layers.
Saltwash® is used as a base coat layer for texture and authentic weathered worn look and can be added in to specialty paints such as chalk paint.
Saltwash® has a chemical make up that allows your Saltwash® layer to dry evenly from bottom to top and top to bottom. This differs from typical paint alone, which dries from top to bottom only, causing it to lie down and smooth out, loosing the layered look you want to achieve.
Saltwash® is a patent pending product. Its chemical composition has an active ingredient that when added to paint and applied to any surface it begins to dry throughout all at one time giving the desired layered, aged look. It has NO VOC’s and is a lead free product.
As a patent pending product, Saltwash® is the original and only product on the market to ever introduce the sun kissed finish and layering technique that Saltwash® provides. Although companies may try imitate, we are confident that there is only one way to Saltwash®!
Paint Inlays
Yes, you can seal with wax as well, but as always, product ingredients vary by manufacturer, and you should always test in an inconspicuous spot.
Theoretically (based on ingredients), indefinitely. Just make sure you store them flat and in a dry, low-humidity environment.
The IOD Paint Inlays were designed to work with chalk and mineral-type paints that do not contain significant amounts of polymer binder.
There is a very important working relationship between the paint and the inlay. The paint needs to release the inlay easily after it has completely dried, and been remoistened. You should not have to put a lot of tension on the inlay carrier to remove it, and certainly not enough to tear it.
The nature of polymer binders (acrylic for example), is to bind well, which makes them work against the inlay process. In our testing and development, this is evidenced by the carrier fibers that are left in the paint finish when used with some polymer-based paints.
HOWEVER, paint ingredients vary greatly by brand, and their performance with inlays varies as well. Generally speaking, some polymer-based furniture paints CAN be used with IOD Paint inlays, with a little extra care in the timing. The same goes for polymer-based clear topcoats.
With chalk and mineral-based paints that do not contain significant amounts of polymers, you have a long drying window (they can sit for days before removal without a problem).
With furniture paints that have significant polymer binders, you will want to check them and remove them as soon as they are dry to touch, maybe even while still cool from dampness. Know that there is also a likelihood that fibers can be left behind, though it’s often not significant enough to see without a loupe.
In our testing, latex paints did not work well with IOD Paint Inlays. Please consult with your local stockist as they can share their experience with the IOD Paint Inlays and their preferred brand of paint.
The inlay dries quickly. In fact, you should wait until it’s fully dry before sealing, but it will always be active until sealed. Active meaning, it can be reactivated by water.
The sealing mechanism is physical more than chemical. There's no catalyst involved. Think of it the way a mineral-type paint is sealed and how that works. There's a combination of two things, penetration of the coating into the porous material and a barrier.
Yes, in a sense. When the paint dries, the bond between the paint coat and the paint on the inlay is stronger than the bond between the paint inlay and the carrier paper. It basically becomes one with the paint coat. It’s "inlaid" or "embedded.”
We *THINK* they can be rolled without damaging the Inlay. However, we recommend storing them flat as it’s easier to apply them when they’re not curling. Additionally, flat storage keeps the covers of the pad flat for re-storage of the dry, used Inlay sheets.
In typical heat or cold environments, we believe they are more stable than current transfers. However, heavy moisture situations could affect them. Typical environmental humidity would not be a problem as unused/new Inlays are relatively protected by the cellophane wrapper.
Yes. The dilution technique is just a hack that we like, but only one option. You can absolutely spray a liquid sealer full strength through a sprayer, or use an aerosol option.
Yes. However, we prefer the drying mechanism of gentle air movement to heat. We use fans a lot, and because of the nature of the paint, much like mineral-based paint, it dries pretty quickly. We avoid drying tools that get very hot, as heat can compromise the stability of paint in general, and cause bubbling or even delaminating of furniture surfaces.
Yes, you will need to seal it, unless you are going for an ongoing sort of evolving abstract work of art that includes drips and kid smudges and...
We don't know about the mildew-resistant paint, but since it's not chalk-type paint and probably is very polymer-based, it would likely work differently and need some fuss. If you want to use a mildew-resistant paint, we recommend you do the following: ● Paint the surface with mildew resistant paint ● Coat the surface with a mineral type paint (over top of the mildew resistant paint) ● Apply the IOD Paint Inlay ● Seal as directed and, perhaps, add an additional coat of sealant for durability
See question #3. You can inlay it into clear topcoats, with special considerations for timing. Different brands of topcoats/sealers and polymer-based paints will be more forgiving with IOD Paint Inlays than others. For example, some non-chalk-type paints and sealers will grab the heck out of the Inlay carrier sheet and won't let go if allowed to dry. Some will work fine as long as you remove as soon as it’s dry to the touch. Timing is key when using polymer-based products with IOD Paint Inlays. Consult with your IOD stockist and remember to test in an inconspicuous place.